The goal here is to discuss some techniques of using slimming lines such as the vertical line to give the illusion of length and slimness from the neck to the ankles. Included are some principles and examples.
Creating Vertical Lines
The vertical line is the basis of all thin lines: All thin lines are up-and-down lines.
For example, you can take a vertically-striped shirtwaist dress and over it put a V-neck vest that points to the waist giving you an even thinner line because of the use of two verticals.
Necklines
The neckline area has probably the most possibilities for dressing thin. The neckline draws the attention upward to the face where we want it to be.
There are five types, namely:
- V-neck
- Round
- Square
- Tailored
- Collarless
Neckline #1: The V-neck
This type of neckline can be very slimming and can be created with detailed stitching.
For the thinnest line, keep the V-neck narrow and deep. One of the best V-neck lines in dresses for women is the classic shawl-collar wrap around (bathrobe dress) that opens in the front, wraps around and ties with a self-belt hanging down (which creates more vertical lines).
You can also design some slimming V-necks to create a slim look using accessories such as scarves and jewelry. Your imagination is your limit of possibilities.
Neckline #2: Round
A round neckline is not always the best choice for heavier people because it accentuates the broad chest line. If you like round necks, try scoops or ovals, but keep them deep enough to lengthen the neckline and use fabrics that drape nicely.
Neckline #3: Square
Square necklines are good choices for larger people. They are severe but elegant. Remember to not break the line with scarves or beads, or anything else. If the garment is dressy the neckline should be kept quite low.
To achieve a casual square neckline, you could use a square denim jumper with a brightly-colored turtleneck.
Neckline #4: Tailored
Tailored collars come in many types. There is the Peter Pan collar, wing collar, and button-down, plus the use of ribbons, scarves and ascots.
Neckline #5: Collarless
Collarless shirts can be used if you keep them unbuttoned at least two buttons down in order to take away from the roundness of the collarless neckline. In addition, always wear turtlenecks under another garment in order to break the horizontal expanse across the chest line: Use with scooped-necked sweaters, V-necks, chains or cowls. If the cowls are draped in vertical lines, expose the center of the throat.
Sleeves
Sleeves are extremely important to the art of dressing thin. This is because the shoulder line determines the width of the upper portion of the body.
There are several types of sleeves, namely:
- Tailored- long, short and capped
- Kimono
- Raglan
Sleeve #1: Tailored
For tailored sleeves, whether long, short, or cap, the shoulder seam must fit perfectly.
Suggestions:
- Avoid cap sleeves if your bustline is on the large size
- Always roll a short sleeve over once to create softness but don't have it line up with the bustline
- Have the arm hole roomy so that it doesn't drag.
Sleeve #2: Kimono
The kimono sleeve is a good type but if the hip area is wide, keep it narrow and fairly long. Thick waists should wear the 3/4 sleeve length, and add a chunky bracelet or several thinner bracelets together for balance.
Sleeve #3: Raglan
The raglan sleeve has no shoulder seam at all. It is very slimming, and it cuts down on shoulder width since it breaks the horizontal chest line. Raglan sleeves can be tailored, kimono style, or batwing. In addition, they are great to camouflage chubby arms.
Waist Bands
There are two types of waist bands, namely:
- Straight
- Curved
The straight waist band is the most slimming for thick middles but not too tight. If too tight, the tummy will bulge out.
The straight waist band looks neater under jackets and blazers. You can also drop the straight waist band to form the blouson, which will create length for the short-waisted person. But one word of caution: stay away from wide belts unless you are extremely long-waisted.
Skirt Styles
Skirts can be one of the best assets you have if you choose the style correctly. Good choices are the stitched down pleated skirt, the gentle A-line, the wrap-around style with the self-tie belt, or the darted A-line.
Bad choices are the dirndl and gathered skirts: darts are fine but no gathers. The straight skirt is also a bad choice. It will make the line appear boxy. In addition, don't choose circular skirts or skirts with all-around pleats.
Hemlines
Hemlines should be flattering to your body. The most slimming hemline is about two to three inches (five to seven cm) below the knee. If the hemline cuts across the calf of the leg, it will make thick calves appear as tree trunks.
Vertical Illusions Using Color
The slenderizing secret of color is contrast. Vertical lines created with the use of color can be the greatest thinning power that we can use, provided the lines and colors are chosen carefully.
When you choose colors, be sure that they complement your hair, skin tone, and eyes to the maximum. Also, don't choose colors on a whim. Be sure that the colors you choose co-ordinate with the rest of the colors of your wardrobe for best versatility.
If you are particularly wide-hipped, you won't want to wear a light-colored skirt or pants with a dark top and shoes. If you are a bit too heavy, a light top with a dark skirt or pants will emphasize this. Instead, wear a light-colored dress, suit or coat, or an outfit in co-coordinated light colors because it gives a balanced look.
Another example is to wear a green, button-front shirt with a white collar and cuffs. This will give you height, draw the eye to the neckline, and add interest.
Alternatively, try a white shirtwaist with black, front buttons and a thin black belt. Unbutton the top button, add a short scarf at the neck with a black cardigan, and you have a thinning, interesting outfit.
Here is another fascinating style. Take a plain A-line dress, and add a jacket in tweed or plaid (not too bold). Then take a contrasting color from the jacket (plaid) and wrap it in a cowl fashion around the neck.
Contrasting colors break up the horizontal lines, resulting in the creation of vertical lines. However, try to remember to keep the dark colors to the outside of your ensemble, building up bright or light colors through the center. This can be done easily through the use of darker-colored sweaters and blazers.
You like white sweaters? Fine! Just avoid wearing them with a white shirt. With sweaters, shawl collars are the most effective.
Vertical Illusions Using Fabrics
You want fabrics that are soft, slimming and natural: silk, cotton, linen and wool.
Fabric #1: Silk
If you decide to use silk, choose a type of fabric that has a matte finish, not a shiny finish which catches the light and adds dimension to your outfit. Furthermore, never choose sheer materials because they are revealing.
Fabric #2: Cotton
Cotton is practical. It is a cool fabric that should be worn in the summer. Its crispness spells clean and fresh. But big tops must have shoulders that fit and a moderated fullness of the arms if worn by heavier frames.
Fabric #3: Linen
If linen is your choice, go with the polyester lines to be sure the fabric holds its shape. Pure linen tends to crease and look sloppy. If the fabric doesn't hold its shape, it may take on your shape which might defeat the whole purpose.
Fabric #4: Wool
Thank God for wool. Nothing is smarter than good wool garments that fit well, and are well made. You can wear wool suits, sweaters, skirts, pants, dresses, blazers and coats. The fuller figures, however, need to pick a finely woven type of wool. That way they won't add too much bulk to the silhouette. The ideal wool would be gabardine. It is very dense, it hangs and moves like silk, yet it is heavy and holds its shape. It also takes color extremely well.
Vertical Illusions Using Patterns
You have a big part of the problem of looking slim solved if you stay away from horizontal lines. Next avoid large and bold plaids.
Solid colors or small, all-over patterns tend to be the most slimming because they break up the body line the least.
Wear vertical, diagonal stripes: narrow, wide, or a mixture; small checks; any kind of print that doesn't create horizontals.
Don't be afraid of dramatic, unusual patterns; the larger person can carry them off well. Try a wrap skirt and matching shawl in a dramatic Indian print with its vivid reds, blues and greens. Or perhaps a dolman sleeved dress of vertical stripes with different widths in colors such as plum, mauve, deep purple and black. Even a rose tweed suit with a blouse of white daisies on rose. Would you believe an A-line challis skirt with an all-over print of multicolored flowers on black?
The Goal of Thinness
Clothes, using vertical illusions, can create the visual impression of thinness. If looking thin is your goal, accomplish it by applying the principles, as outlined, in your clothing choices.
Sources:
- Dale Goday and Molly Cochran. Dressing Thin. Simon & Schuster. 1981 pgs. 31-87
- Leah Feldon. Dressing Rich. G.P. Putnam's Sons. 1982. pgs. 63-64; 67.
James Gibson - James Gibson is a retired teacher and small business owner. He is a published writer and has a wide spectrum of interests.
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